Archive for March, 2010

10
Mar

Week 50: Lycian Way

   Posted by: Rhona    in Turkey

For the past 6 days Brett and I have been walking along the Lycian Way. It’s a 509km long hiking path that stretches between Fethiye (or technically a small town outside it called Ovacik) to Antalya. We started walking from Fethiye, passing a village called Kaya Koy before starting on the trail proper around Hisaronu. Over six hiking days we covered around 80km and finally stopped walking in Pydnai earlier this morning.

Kaya Koy was our first stop outside Fethiye. The main attraction is the 2000 or so empty stone houses that cover the hillside of what was once a bustling Ottoman-Greek town. As part the population exchanges that took place after the Turkish War of Independence the Christian inhabitants were moved to the outskirts of Athens and only a handful of Muslim Turks were left. As there were less Turks in Greece nobody replaced the inhabitants who had been moved away and the town has stood abandoned since the 1920s. These days it’s apparently a popular daytrip from the bustle that is Fethiye in the summer months though at this time of year we had the place almost to ourselves. We wandered between roofless and crumbling houses, following cobblestone paths overgrown with weeds. A few of the old churches were still standing, with black and white pebble mosaics and the remains of frescoes. In one we saw the remains of icons painted on the wall, albeit with eyes gouged out and covered with whitewash to the average reach of a Turkish man. It turns out the Muslims have done to the Christians what we’ve seen evidence of the Christians doing to the Greek/Roman gods before them.

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3
Mar

Week 49: Turkish Delights

   Posted by: Rhona    in Turkey

From Selcuk we travelled to Kusadasi where we met up with my aunt’s stepbrother who lives there with his wife. I’d never met Mark and Barbara before but we had a great time hanging out, ended up staying at their place that night and talked for hours over a couple of glasses of wine. Listening to my aunt’s family history I realise how interesting the people who I’ve grown up with are. When someone’s always been a part of your life you don’t really think about where they came from. Her mother is Greek and took part in the population exchanges between Greece and Turkey in the aftermath of the First World War. She ended up marrying a British man who is my aunt’s father but they divorced. My aunt’s mother remarried and Mark is her second husband’s son from a previous marriage. Apparently before the family was kicked out of Turkey my aunt’s grandfather built (or designed?) buildings for the Ottoman sultans which can still be seen in Istanbul today.

It was a good week for meeting interesting people in between our Roman ruin visits. Our base for visiting the UNESCO listed combination of Hierapolis/Pamukkale was Denizli where we couchsurfed. Yasin had contacted us and offered his house so we based ourselves there for a couple of nights and did a daytrip. His wife, Umran, and 1 year old daughter, Deniz, were lovely and we really enjoyed hanging out with their extended family. On our second night there he took us to a concert by a Turkish singer who has been living in exile in France since 1980. In that year Turkey had its third military coup (earlier ones in 1960 and 1971) and hundreds of thousands of people were detained, tortured, tried and blacklisted. Around 14,000 people were stripped of citizenship.

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